The Tudor Black Bay Chrono Hits Its Stride

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01:46 04/16/2025

Anonymous32025023

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Caliber:  CFB 1901.1 Functions: Chronograph, three time-zones, date, hour, minute, small seconds Diameter: 28.6mmThickness: 7.3mmPower replika Vacheron Constantin Reserve: 42 hoursWinding: AutomaticFrequency: 28,800vphJewels: 39Chronometer Certified: Yes, COSCA collector for more than three decades, Paul Boutros is now the Head of Watches, Americas for the Phillips auction house. In October of 2017, he led the auction that brought in $17.8 million dollars for Paul Newman's Rolex "Paul Newman" Daytona, the highest price ever paid for a vintage wristwatch sold at auction.
As you can see in the above photo, the name on the electric movement inside indicates it was made by Diehl of Germany. This means that the movement inside likely dates to 1945 or later, which is when Diehl entered the clock business.But before we take a deeper dive into those later this week, let's explore a few interesting lots in the sale that also deserve some time in the sun. We'll start with replika Cartier the perpetual calendars. Buckle up!If you're here reading this Vintage Watches column on HODINKEE we can safely assume that you take a romantic view of wristwatches, at least to some extent. The gloss of a vintage Rolex gilt dial or the snap of a Valjoux 72 chronograph hand resetting, for example; these are the details we, as vintage fans, go nuts for. But the deep gloss back on your Submariner ref. 5513 can't tell you what day of the month it is and the Valjoux 72's resetting snap won't change how accurate that chronograph is.The dial features luminous dot and baton hour markers and hands, which provide excellent visibility in low-light conditions. The date window is discreetly positioned between the four and five o'clock markers, maintaining the dial's symmetry and functionality without overwhelming its simplicity. The inclusion of a red-tipped seconds hand adds a subtle touch of color to the otherwise monochromatic design.
On top of all that, the attention to replica Audemars Piguet detail on the dial is simply extraordinary. GS diamond-polishes the hands and indexes to a very high level, elevating the look without losing the GMT’s inherent sportiness. Jack told me that he has seen the polisher at the Grand Seiko Suwa factory individually inspect indexes using a small hand mirror.According to our friends at TAG Heuer, Gosling was so into the Heuer ref. 1158 CHN on bracelet that he wore in Barbie he put in a request for his own. After loaning him the vintage museum piece to wear to a Gucci show last September (again covered by sleeves), the TAG Heuer team decided to make Gosling a Glassbox Carrera complete with its own Milanese style gold bracelet.A year later, Stern would use these machines and patterns to develop a process we now know as tapisserie and, working with Genta, the ref. 5402 Royal Oak dial was born. In 1976, Genta returned, wanting a similar style dial for his latest project with Patek Philippe. Stern offered 10 tapisserie options, all based on the La Nationale-inherited patterns. Ultimately, Henri Stern himself chose the eventual finish for the ref. 3700 Nautilus.

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