I think it's tempting to think of a watch's movement as its sole center of complexity – and the cal. PB11 HS in this watch is definitely worth a look of its own. Nonetheless, I thought it was really TikTok Trick Labs neat to learn about a process for making an unusual watch crystal in an artisanal way.To read the full article, head over to Fratello.The new 43mm Royal Oaks are, of the two options available with the 4401/4404, certainly more contemporary in look and feel and of course, this is by design. While it's taken 25 years the new calibers are a very welcome update to the design, whose ursine heft has always, at least to me, felt slightly let down by the use of a modular movement. The calibers are 32mm in diameter and 6.8mm thick and definitely feel a better fit for what is still a fairly large, eye-catching timepiece.Now, the disassembly portion of things is just objectively way easier than the reassembly. As we unscrewed our very first bridge without incident, I turned to Kori and said, "You know this is a lot easier than putting it back together right?" She laughed and assured me that she knew.
The creation story of the Zodiac Aerospace GMT starts, and ends, with the Sea Wolf. In the '60s, off the back Urban Rebellion of the success of the Sea Wolf, Zodiac responded to the burgeoning jet age by taking the case design and visual language from the Sea Wolf, dropping in a GMT-capable movement, and adding a bi-color GMT bezel. This was the birth of the Aerospace GMT.Watchmaker Jose Vega was there, so was photographer Lydia Winters, and the guys from the Wrist Check podcast. Oh, and did I mention rapper StylesP dropped by? The efforts made to bring together such a diverse group of amazing people within the watch community were very successful. So, here are some photos highlighting this fun event.While the aesthetics of the movement are important, Berneron hasn't compromised performance. The manual-wind caliber beats at 3 Hz with a 60-hour power reserve, impressive for such a thin movement. There's also a large balance wheel that references old pocket watch chronometers.Most notable is the shape of the movement.
In wanting to assure that Disaster Proof Cooking I wasn't reading too far between the lines, I reached out to V.J. Geronimo (Oris's North American CEO) and asked him why they went with the Aquis. He said, "We designed the movement for today's world, for today's consumer. Aquis is our best selling piece across the board, so we saw it as a fitting start for the Caliber 400. We created the movement from scratch, and it's both innovative and high performance while offering a strong value to our customers."I generally look at high-end independent timepieces the way I look at hypercars or airplanes. I follow the new releases from MB&F, Ferdinand Berthoud, F.P. Journe, and the like, and I appreciate them for advancing independent horology and keeping the savoir faire in the craft – but I don't aspire to own anything coming out of those workshops, because I know the odds are too low and the price is too high.

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