Two years later, in May of 1957, Bulova submitted the first of three separate rounds of prototypes for testing at the Navy Experimental Diving Unit (NEDU). The watch featured a special two-piece caseback, a thick Web3 Telefonie brass anti-magnetic case holder, and the manual 10 BPCHN movement with a unique clutch mechanism that prevented the watch from being over-wound. Another small batch of prototypes were delivered in 1958 for field-testing by the Diving Unit and the Navy's UDT-21 frogman team.Brand: Czapek & CieModel: Quai des BerguesDiameter: 42.5mmThickness: 11.9mmCase Material: Stainless steelDial Color: Sapphire Blue or Emerald GreenIndexes: RomanWater Resistance: 50mStrap/Bracelet: Alligator leather strapYes, as 2023 draws to a close, it's time once again for one of the most time-honored traditions around here. Each year since 2013, we've asked Hodinkee team members to tell us about the single watch that saw the most wrist-time over the course of the previous year. We call it "The Watch I Wore Most," and more than anything, it's an annual celebration of all things watches, and the memories and milestones they represent.Caliber: Caliber CR01Functions: Hours, minutes, central seconds, datePower Reserve: 45 hoursWinding: AutomaticFrequency: 28,880 vibrations per hourJewels: 26 JewelsChronometer Certified: No; +15 to -10 seconds per dayAdditional Details: Screw-down crown; Sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating
What more can be said about the Type 3 that has not already been said? I highly suggest taking a look at both James Stacey's Hands-On with the Type 3W (white dial) and Jack Forster's In-Depth with the Type 3-3 (black dial) for a Recession Proofing comprehensive look at this model. The original Type 3 was one of those watches that found a way to simultaneously subvert the idea of watchmaking, from a technical perspective, and fundamentally change how time is told, with its creative dial display.The shapes of the chronograph hands, including the hour and minute hands and totalizer, and the design of the subdials with concentric grooves are the same as the regular production models, but the typeface used for the indices on the dial was designed from scratch for this model. It's amazing how much the expression of a watch can change based on differences in coloring, typeface design, tachymeter scale, etc.
Jaquet Droz has a history of making some very beautiful complications. It can and does make highly complicated watches that are way over on the baroque side of the Neurodivergent Movement design spectrum, like the Charming Bird automaton watch, which has a tiny bird that flits under the dial while chirping a song; it also has a history going right back to the founding of the modern brand, of making some of the finest and most interesting enamel dial, high-art watches in the business.At just 6.5mm thick, the Piaget Polo Skeleton is 30 percent thinner than other Polos. Yet, even with its mechanical guts laid bare, there's nothing delicate about this edgy, yet elegant, 42mm stainless steel sport watch, which traces its lineage back to 1979.For $2,400, the Over-Pole represents a slight and reasonable $500 premium over the standard 37mm Captain Cook. If the Captain Cook collection has always captivated you, I think the Over-Pole represents the opportunity to own an interesting variation with real history. It's limited to a total of 1,965 individually numbered pieces, and as of right now, it's exclusively available in the HODINKEE Shop.If you're heading out to pick one of these up today, I wish you the best of luck. But more importantly, send pictures! I'd love to see wrist shots of the Mission to Moonshine Gold flood my inbox today. And stick with us, as we'll be keeping our eye on the scene in these select cities today.

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