The Cartier Santos-Dumont 'La Demoiselle' Limited Edition

#1

02:22 05/27/2025

Anonymous32034091

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The 22mm wide bracelet on the Marc & Sons DWFB Limited Edition is nicely done with button-actuated releases for both the wetsuit extension and the main opening. It seems to be the same design as used in the IWC Portugieser recently reviewed Boldr Globetrotter, which is fine. I do wish it were tapered towards the buckle, though, as it makes for a relatively heavy feel.The overall look is basically a continuation of the same ideas found in the 2019 redesign. The large applied markers are still there, as is the rotating bezel, and date complication. What's new is the dial layout which now features three sub-registers to correspond to the chronograph movement. There are also two large pushers flanking the crown for operation of said chronograph.
Lastly, we should take a quick moment to appreciate the great functionality this Astor+Banks Longines Equestrian Collection offers.Caliber: ETA 2893 (GMT); Sellita SW200-1 (Diver and Field)Functions: Caller GMT, Hours, Minutes, Seconds, Date (GMT); Hours, Minutes, Hacking Seconds, Date (Diver and Field)Power Reserve: 42 hours power reserve (GMT); 38 hours power reserve (Diver and Field)Winding: AutomaticFrequency: 28,800 vph
I know I might make it seem like the watch is not legible. But honestly, that couldn't be further from the truth. The short, beefy hour hand and the lume therein are divided by a Zenith Chronomaster thin line that looks like a reference to the OG Sea Wolf hand. With a contrasting orange minute hand floating over the central pearl sunburst disk, reading the time is fast and precise.The "engine" in this case needs to be removed, dissembled, cleaned, checked for damage, oiled then reassembled all the while leaving no trace that anyone has been there. I was all over the Red Magic iteration on paper, but after experiencing it during "WAW," it was my least favorite Big Bang of the five.I am happy to report that, at long last, the Rolex Bubbleback market is showing signs of life. These watches were very popular and heavily collected decades ago but have since settled into the background of the vintage world. For a multitude of factors, including case size, difficulty in finding solid examples, and many, many reprinted dials, even the most passionate vintage collectors of the past 10 or 20 years have steered clear.

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02/01/2026

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02/07/2026

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02/08/2026

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02/16/2026

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02/18/2026

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02/23/2026

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