One modern upgrade to the DS PH200M is the use of the Swatch Group’s workhorse Powermatic 80 self-winding movement, a caliber found also in some Swatch stablemate Hamiltons and Tissots. As its name suggests, this movement’s claim to fame is the 80 hours of power reserve it provides, impressive at movements in this price Rolex Lady-Datejust level of watch.Cutting apertures in the dial for things like date indications, as well as tiny holes for applied indexes, are usually done nowadays by CNC machines, in order to reduce the risk of damage. Mother-of-pearl dials can also be engraved, and they can be colored as well, both back and front, with a variety of lacquers and paints. The mother-of-pearl disk is usually mounted onto a rigid metal back.It's easy to tell Vichet and Wenger cases apart if you can open the watch and see the inside of the caseback, looking for the "Key 9" signature for Vichet or "Key 1" for Wenger. But it's not often you get to "crack open" a $300,000+ watch. So, like with the ref. 2499, you can start by looking at the lugs very closely.
Now, what if you are on a slightly tighter budget but you like the vibe? Well, a 1950s/1960s Omega Seamaster offers a great alternative. Reference 166.010, for instance, is a fantastic-looking everyday watch you can find under €2K any day. Get it on the jangly beads-of-rice bracelet for the full vintage experience.Sitting on my desk this week was an all black Tudor dive watch. And, no, it's not called IWC Pilot’s the Black Bay Black. That name was already taken by last year's edition featuring a black dial and bezel. This is the Black Bay Dark, a distinct model first revealed at baselworld earlier this year. It's a suped-up, blacked-out take on the company's popular vintage-inspired diver, and it provides a totally different experience than its older siblings.But that doesn't conclude the watch festivities in this movie – we're headed into extra innings. As an added bonus, one of the scouts on Bean’s staff wears a black dial Rolex Explorer 16570. Let us know in the comments if you can spot it.
I covered the other new introductions during Watches and Wonders, including the Grand Seiko SLGH021 "Genbi Valley," which joins the family of so-called "Birch" models in the Evolution 9 collection.The watches show classy appeal Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra and great variation, which is possible with different shades of brown.This year however, Cartier has quite aptly revisited its lines and size to bring it up-to-date.A little stretch is inevitable. A bracelet stretches when the pins wear down, which is just a thing that they do. Drilled holes in the links expand and create more room for the pin to jiggle around and cause "play" in the bracelet. Some folks like a little stretch in their bracelet; some folks like it tight, with minimal play. It's a matter of personal preference.

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